In today’s discussion, we delve into the fascinating world of skincare, inspired by our previous video titled “The Only Anti-Aging Cream That Works! According to Science.” We were fortunate to receive insightful feedback from Michelle, also known as Lab Muffin, who helped us understand the complexities we initially overlooked. Instead of traveling to Australia, we opted for a virtual meeting with Michelle, which proved to be both convenient and cost-effective.
Michelle, or Lab Muffin, holds a PhD in chemistry and has been educating people about the science of beauty products since 2011. Her mission is to make scientific concepts accessible to those without a science background, much like our approach but focused on skincare.
When asked about her reaction to our video, Michelle expressed excitement rather than annoyance. She appreciated the rare opportunity to discuss skincare from a scientific perspective, highlighting the importance of real-time feedback in the world of content creation.
As content creators, we’ve had our share of errors, from biological pathways to the periodic table. For instance, we once mistakenly claimed it took eight seconds for sunlight to reach Earth, when in fact, it takes eight minutes. With Michelle’s guidance, we aimed to correct and learn from our skincare video.
Michelle explained the nuances of skincare ingredients, emphasizing that while ingredient lists are informative, they can be misleading. Ingredients are listed by concentration, but more isn’t always better. Excessive amounts can lead to irritation, and some ingredients, like retinol and vitamin C, are unstable and may degrade over time.
She likened formulation to baking a chocolate cake: the same ingredients can yield different results based on how they’re combined. Therefore, a product with a lower concentration of an active ingredient but a superior delivery system might outperform one with a higher concentration.
Michelle advised that, unlike pharmaceuticals, skincare lacks extensive clinical trials. Consumers must rely on anecdotal evidence, reviews, and ingredient lists to make informed decisions. If you’re content with your skin, there’s no need to stress over skincare routines.
Antioxidants are often touted for anti-aging, but scientific consensus is lacking due to small study sample sizes. Michelle noted that skincare research is underfunded, requiring us to manage expectations and rely on educated guesses.
Collagen, frequently marketed for wrinkle reduction, is too large to penetrate the skin. However, it acts as a humectant, keeping skin hydrated and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. While collagen can increase product costs, glycerin often provides similar benefits.
Retinol and retinoic acid are among the few ingredients with scientific backing for anti-aging. Michelle highlighted the cultural differences in aging perceptions, noting that Western marketing often focuses on wrinkles, while other cultures prioritize concerns like pigmentation and age spots.
Michelle pointed out the Eurocentric bias in scientific studies, which often emphasize wrinkles and overlook how different skin tones age. This bias was evident during the COVID-19 pandemic, where most dermatological images depicted white skin, complicating diagnosis for darker skin tones.
When asked if we should remove our original video, Michelle suggested keeping it as a testament to the evolving nature of scientific conversations. Science is not a static monolith, and acknowledging its dynamic nature is crucial.
We extend our gratitude to Michelle for her invaluable insights. You can explore more of her work on her YouTube channel, Lab Muffin Beauty Science, and follow her on Instagram, TikTok, and Twitter for more science-backed beauty content.
Engage in a virtual discussion panel with Michelle, also known as Lab Muffin. Prepare questions about the science behind skincare and the process of debunking myths. This activity will allow you to interact directly with an expert and gain insights into the complexities of skincare science.
Participate in a workshop where you analyze various skincare products’ ingredient lists. Learn how to identify key ingredients, understand their functions, and discuss the importance of formulation over concentration. This hands-on activity will enhance your ability to make informed skincare choices.
Work in groups to identify and correct common misconceptions in skincare science, similar to the sunlight travel time error mentioned in the article. Present your findings and discuss the importance of accurate information in content creation and consumer education.
Engage in a role-playing debate where you represent different stakeholders in the skincare industry, such as marketers, scientists, and consumers. Discuss the impact of marketing claims on consumer behavior and the importance of scientific backing for skincare products.
Conduct a research project exploring cultural differences in perceptions of aging and skincare. Present your findings on how these perceptions influence product development and marketing strategies. This activity will broaden your understanding of the global skincare market.
Here’s a sanitized version of the provided YouTube transcript:
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– Today we are getting started.
– [Announcer] Debunked.
– Since we are one of the best YouTube channels,
– [Announcer] Debunked.
– Okay, since we are a YouTube channel (chuckles).
– We’re two of the most enthusiastic hosts.
– [Announcer] Debunked.
– Are we not enthusiastic? (loudly laughing)
Last year, we made a video titled “The Only Anti-Aging Cream That Works! According to Science,” and we were shown a video by the incredible Lab Muffin that explained some of the complexities of beauty products that we got wrong. So, we decided to fly to Australia to visit Lab Muffin, even during a global pandemic.
– [Announcer] Debunked.
– True, I guess we’ll just stay home and Zoom with her because that’s actually really easy and everyone should be doing that.
– And (chuckles) it’s cheaper.
Michelle, AKA Lab Muffin, Hi.
– Hi.
Michelle, can you give us a background on who you are?
– I have a PhD in chemistry and a background in science education. I’ve been making videos and blogging about the science behind beauty products since 2011. I aim to help people without a science background understand it, similar to what you guys do but for beauty.
– Be honest, when you saw our video, were you annoyed?
– I wasn’t annoyed. I was actually really excited because it is so rare that anyone makes a whole video about skincare from a science perspective.
One of the best parts of being YouTubers is that you get real-time feedback on what you’re doing. In the past, we have definitely had to correct biological pathways and drawings we’ve made mistakes on before.
– Yeah, or even the periodic table; we’ve updated it based on new information.
– And we once said it took eight seconds for the sun to reach Earth, and it’s actually eight minutes. (bell dings)
With you, this was like a full video. So, what we thought we could do today is go through our video, and you’re going to explain the parts that we got wrong.
– So, we’re going to sit down with my partner, Mitch, because I didn’t really know or use skin creams, to see if he can actually pick and choose which ones are more effective and teach you how to read the ingredient lists of these beauty products to understand from a scientific perspective which ones work.
– The very idea of this game is flawed (chuckles), some might say, correct?
– Yeah, there is a bit of a problem with it. In most countries, products have to have an ingredient list, and it’s listed in order of concentration. It’s tempting to look at how high an ingredient is on the list to see if you have more of an ingredient. More is usually better. But while you need enough of an ingredient for it to work, you can also have too much, which can lead to side effects. Skincare ingredients can be irritating if used in excess, so more is not always better.
Another issue with focusing on the ingredients list is that it only tells you how much of an ingredient is present at the start. Some ingredients, like retinol and vitamin C, are unstable. For example, 1% retinol products from different brands can end up containing very different amounts of retinol by the time they reach you. So, a product with a high concentration of an active ingredient but a poor delivery system might not work as well as a product with a lower concentration but a better delivery system.
You can think of formulation like a chocolate cake. Technically, the final chocolate cake and a bag of chocolate cake ingredients would have the same ingredient list, but when you use them, they provide two very different experiences.
– Is it just something that you navigate by doing a lot of research before you buy a product? Because if you just look at the ingredients list and read what’s on the bottle, it can be confusing since they are trying to persuade you to buy it.
– If you were looking for a medicine, you would want one proven in clinical trials. In skincare, since that doesn’t really exist, you have to rely on anecdotal evidence, reviews, and the ingredients list to make a good decision.
– As someone who hasn’t really focused on skincare, I don’t wash my face that often (chuckles). Is it to my detriment that I’m not thinking about it that much?
– Honestly, if you’re happy with your skin, don’t worry about it. (laughs lightly)
Antioxidants are claimed in many products, but there isn’t a scientific consensus that they help with anti-aging. In your video, you mentioned this was misleading, but I had read the studies you referenced, and I didn’t feel comfortable saying there was a scientific consensus behind them due to their small sample sizes.
The big problem with skincare is that there isn’t much funding for it. We have to take these studies with a grain of salt. Generally, skincare studies have smaller sample sizes compared to pharmaceuticals. For skincare, we need to lower our expectations and do some educated guesswork. A study with 10 people and an objective measure, like a biopsy, is decent for skincare studies.
Vitamin C is regulated as a quasi-drug in Japan, which means there’s enough evidence that it does something, specifically as a pigment-fading agent.
– The reason for small sample sizes is that having glowing, beautiful skin isn’t a top medical priority. (laughing lightly)
Many products claim collagen helps with wrinkles, but the molecule is too large to penetrate the epidermis. Therefore, anything with collagen isn’t worth purchasing.
Collagen is often overrated, but I wouldn’t say it’s entirely ineffective. It’s more about the story it tells. While it’s too large to penetrate the skin, it acts as a humectant, which helps keep the skin hydrated, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and acting as a barrier against irritants. Collagen can make products more expensive, but glycerin usually does the heavy lifting.
Now, let’s talk about retinol and retinoic acid, as they are the only anti-aging ingredients with scientific consensus.
In Western marketing, the idea of wrinkles is heavily emphasized, but in many other countries with different skin types, aging isn’t solely about wrinkles. For example, white skin tends to show wrinkles in the late twenties or early thirties, while Asian skin shows signs of aging later, often in the forties or fifties. For many, uneven pigmentation and age spots are more significant concerns.
– My mom is half South Asian, and I have slightly tan skin. I’ve thought about how darker skin protects against the sun but never considered that it also affects how skin ages.
– Yes, that’s where the saying “black don’t crack” comes from.
Many scientific studies focus on wrinkles and briefly mention why different skin tones age differently, often reverting back to discussing wrinkles, highlighting the Eurocentric bias in scientific research.
There was a notable issue regarding COVID manifestations in darker skin, with many dermatologists pointing out that most images depicted white skin, making it harder to diagnose and address issues in darker skin.
– Should we take our original video down?
– I don’t think so. It’s valuable for people to see how conversations evolve. There’s a lot of pressure on scientists to present science as a perfect monolith that doesn’t change, which can be damaging.
– Thank you so much for educating us and for your video. Where can people find you? Your channel is amazing.
– Thank you! My channel is Lab Muffin Beauty Science, and I’m also on Instagram. I started on TikTok but am still figuring it out, and I’m on Twitter as well. You can find me as Lab Muffin Beauty Science or Lab Muffin, depending on character limits.
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This version removes any informal or potentially inappropriate language while maintaining the essence of the conversation.
Skincare – The practice or science of maintaining and improving the health and appearance of the skin, often through the use of various chemical compounds and formulations. – In the field of dermatological science, skincare formulations are often tested for their efficacy in improving skin hydration and elasticity.
Chemistry – The branch of science concerned with the substances of which matter is composed, the investigation of their properties and reactions, and the use of such reactions to form new substances. – Organic chemistry plays a crucial role in the development of new pharmaceuticals and skincare products.
Ingredients – Substances that are combined to make a particular product, especially in the context of chemical formulations. – The lab analyzed the ingredients of the new skincare cream to ensure they were safe and effective for human use.
Antioxidants – Molecules that inhibit the oxidation of other molecules, thereby preventing cell damage and contributing to the stability of chemical compounds. – Antioxidants are often added to skincare products to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.
Collagen – A protein that is an essential component of connective tissues in the body, often targeted in skincare for its role in maintaining skin structure and elasticity. – Recent studies in biochemistry have focused on how to stimulate collagen production to reduce the signs of aging in skin.
Retinol – A derivative of vitamin A used in skincare for its ability to promote cell turnover and improve skin texture. – The chemistry department conducted a study on the stability of retinol in various skincare formulations under different storage conditions.
Acid – A substance that donates protons or accepts electrons in chemical reactions, often used in skincare to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. – Glycolic acid is a popular ingredient in chemical peels due to its ability to penetrate the skin and promote exfoliation.
Research – The systematic investigation into and study of materials and sources in order to establish facts and reach new conclusions, particularly in scientific contexts. – Ongoing research in cosmetic chemistry aims to discover new compounds that can enhance skin health and appearance.
Information – Data and knowledge about a particular subject, especially as gathered through scientific study and experimentation. – The journal published new information on the molecular mechanisms of antioxidants in skincare products.
Science – The systematic study of the structure and behavior of the physical and natural world through observation and experiment. – Advances in skin science have led to the development of more effective and targeted skincare treatments.
